Loop Build Guide
Build Time: 45-90 minutesParts
- Case
- PCB
- Plate
- Daughterboard
- Mounting Blocks
- Screwdriver
- Silicone Feet
- Fastener Pack
- Keycap & Switch Puller
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Stabilizers
Not Included
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Switches
x90Not Included
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Keycaps
Not Included
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Foam Kit
Not Included
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Stabilizer Lube Syringe
Not Included
Preparation
Check that you have the required parts and tools listed above. We recommend the following steps to get the most out of your keyboard.
Lubing Stabilizers: This reduces the rattling sounds that stock stabilizers produce. We have our own video tutorial available here.
Lubing Switches (optional): This dampens the sound of your switches and increases their smoothness. Lubing switches is a time-consuming process, but the results are noticeable. Taeha Types and Alexotos have video tutorials available for this.
Mounting Styles
The Loop has a newly designed internal mounting system to fine-tune your typing experience. The lattice block mount uses a lattice structure to create a dreamy, flexible typing experience. The Mode Loop offers three variations of the lattice block mount ranging from full-lattice green (most flex), full-lattice black (mid flex), and half-lattice green (low flex). The solid block mount produces a firmer, more responsive, yet still comfortable typing experience.
Fasteners
There are up to 6 types of fasteners used during this build. This diagram can be referenced to confirm that you are using the correct ones.
Step 1: Test PCB




Do not skip this step; we cannot guarantee a replacement PCB that was not tested prior to assembly.
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- Open VIA, navigate to the Key Tester tab, and enable Test Matrix mode.
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- Place the PCB facedown, connect the daughterboard to the PCB, and plug it in.
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- Touch the ends of your tweezers to the metal contacts under each switch position, lighting up each key in VIA. Note that the function key may not light up.
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- In the rare event that keys do not light up, pause your build here and contact support@modedesigns.com.
Step 2: Install PE foam sheet (optional)




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If you plan to use the optional PE foam, lay it on top of the PCB now (foam kit sold separately).
Step 3: Install Stabilizers




Stabilizers ensure that long keys actuate properly, no matter where you press. The stabilizer wire you need for the spacebar will depend on your choice of layout.
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Insert the non-threaded end of the stabilizer into the larger cutout on the PCB, then pivot the threaded ends into place.
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Ensure that your stabilizers are completely flat on the PCB before screwing them in.
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While bracing the front of each stabilizer, screw it into place from the underside of the PCB. Repeat for the remaining stabilizers.
Step 4: Standoff covers, Plate Foam, Plate




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Remove the mylar standoff covers (the plastic orange circle on top of the standoffs)
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If you plan to use the optional plate foam for a more dampened sound, lay it on top of the PCB now.
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Align the plate with the front of the PCB, and fasten it into place with the M2x5 flat head fasteners (four total).
Step 5: Install Switches




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Before installing your switches, inspect them to ensure the two metal pins on the underside of each switch are straight. Straighten all pins with tweezers if any are bent.
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If you plan to use the optional plate foam for a more dampened sound, lay it on top of the PCB now.
Insert switches into the plate/PCB. Take care to brace the back of the hotswap socket with a finger while pushing the switches into place with your thumb. Do not apply downward pressure to the surface of the plate itself.
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If you have a solder PCB, solder your switches now.
Step 6: Notice for Softer Plates





If you are using a softer plate material such as Nylon, PP, Pom, or PC, ensure switches are fully seated. We recommend using the screwdriver to carefully lift the plate while pressing down on the switch to ensure the switch is seated flat on the plate.
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Install your first few switches around the plate as shown, this will help ensure the plate stays aligned during the installation process.
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Install remaining switches, working your way in from the corner switches.
Step 7: Check Switch Installation




Switches that are not properly installed can cause alignment issues when the case is closed.
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- Check that the plate is not sagging below the tops of the switches.
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- Check that each switch pin is fully seated into the PCB.
Step 8: Install Feet






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Install the rear feet by aligning it with the recess and pushing it in. Both of these silicone feet are exactly the same.
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Install the bar feet by aligning it with the recess and pushing it in(i). Start with the leftmost edge for the left foot and the rightmost edge on the right foot, working your way inwards.
The left and right bar feet are keyed to the left and right side of the case.
Step 9: Disassembly





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Loop TKL ships with the top case, bottom case, and ring pre-assembled.
If you ordered a first edition Loop TKL, it ships with the top case, bottom case, ring, accent, and weight pre-assembled. You do not need to disassemble the accent or weight.
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From the back of the board, use the M2.5 bit to remove the 2 upper case fasteners and the M2 bit to remove the 2 lower case fasteners (four total).
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Set aside the top case and bottom case (with the ring attached).
Step 10: Install Daughterboard




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Connect the daughterboard cable to the daughterboard, fasten it into the weight using the M2x3 fasteners (four total) with the USB-C port facing upwards.
If you ordered a first edition Loop TKL, you can install the daughterboard directly onto the weight without removing it from the bottom case.
Take care not to overtighten the fasteners, or you may damage the daughterboard and/or case.
Step 11: Install Weight




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With the daughterboard facing down, align the left edge of the weight with the recess of the bottom case.
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Gently lower the right edge of the weight into the recess and screw in the weight with the M2.5x5 fasteners (two total).
Step 12: Install Mounting Blocks




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Slide your preferred mounting block onto the plate tabs (seven total), ensuring that the thinner half of the block is facing upwards.
You can easily mix and match or swap these blocks to fine tune your typing experience.
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Insert the assembly into the top case, starting with the bottom, followed by the top.
Step 13: Attach Plate/PCB to Chassis






If you plan to use the optional case foam for a more dampened sound, lay it inside your bottom case now.
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While holding your plate/PCB assembly, use your other hand to attach the daughterboard cable to the PCB
Check the orientation of the daughterboard cable and ensure that it is fully plugged in. It should not come loose if inserted properly.
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Gently lower the plate/PCB assembly into the chassis starting with the bottom edge of the plate/PCB.
Step 14: Install Accent





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Install the accent piece with the flat side facing upwards (this piece only goes in one way) using the M2x4 fasteners (two total).
Step 15: Align Top Case to Bottom Case





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Gently lower the top case over the bottom case and ring assembly (there should be no movement if aligned properly).
Step 16: Install Top Case to Bottom Case





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Carefully hold together the board and flip it so the bottom is facing up.
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While holding the left side of the assembly together, screw in the M3x16 case fastener. Do the same on the right side (two total).
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Screw in the remaining M2.5x12 fasteners (two total).
Step 17: Secure Top and Bottom Case


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With the bottom of the board facing upwards, fasten the top case to the bottom case with the M2.5x12 fasteners (two total).
Step 18: Install Keycaps


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Install your choice of MX-compatible keycaps.
Step 19: Tune Stabilizers


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- Test the stabilized keys for any undesired rattling noises.
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- If rattle is detected, lift the corresponding stem up and inject lube into the slider around the ends of the stabilizer wires.
Step 20: Set macOS layout



If you are using your Encore with a Mac, switch the Command and Option key positions in System Preferences. You will only need to do this one time, and the positions will be correct for both Mac and PC usage.
Step 21: Program Keymap in VIA/QMK


The Encore is fully compatible with VIA and QMK. You can use the graphical interface of VIA to program any of the keys or layers on the Encore.
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If using QMK, you may enter bootloader mode by pressing the physical reset button on the board or pressing Fn + Esc.
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If any of the keys do not actuate properly, it may be due to a bent switch pin during installation. Remove that keycap and switch using a keycap/switch puller. If any metal pins are bent, straighten them with a pair of tweezers.
Happy Typing
We hope you had a smooth build experience and would love to see the end result! Post your build in our photos channels on Discord or tag us on Instagram @modekeyboards. If you have any feedback you'd like to share with us, you can reach out to hi@modedesigns.com.
