Loop Build Guide
This guide will help you assemble your new Mode Loop. The process should take about 1.5 hours for hotswap builds and 2 hours for soldered builds. Prior to assembly, be sure to gather all the necessary parts and tools in your workspace. If you have any questions during assembly, please send us a message using the help widget below or chat with community members in the #build-support channel of our Discord server.
Altenatively we have a build video available on YouTube that you can follow along with here.
Parts
- Top Case
- Bottom Case
- Accent
- Weight
- Ring
- Plate
- PCB
- Daughterboard + Cable
- Full-Lattice Blocks (Green) x7
- Half-Lattice Blocks x7
- Full-Lattice Block (Black) x7
- Solid Blocks x7
- Set of Feet
- M2x3 Daughterboard fasteners x5
- M2x4, Flat Head Fasteners x12
- M2x10 Flat Head Ring Fasteners x7
- M2.5x5 Socket Head Weight Fasteners x3
- M2.5x12 Socket Head Case Fasteners x2
- M3x16 Socket Head Case Fasteners x2
- Screwdriver + bits
- Keycap and Switch Puller
- Stabilizer lube syringe (Krytox 205g0) Not Included
- PE Foam Not Included
- Plate Foam Not Included
- Case Foam Not Included
Additional Tools
- MX-style Switches
- MX-compatible Keycap Set
- Stabilizers (four 2U and one 6.25/7U)
- Tweezers
- LubeOptional: For switches and stabilizers, Krytox 205g0 recommended
- Paint BrushOptional: For applying lube (0 or 00 size)
- Soldering Iron, Wire, and FanOptional: For solderable PCBs only
Preparation
Check that you have the required parts and tools listed above and consider installing VIA (VIA is a free software that makes it easy to test your PCB and customize the keymap of your keyboard). We also recommend the following steps to get the most out of your Loop.
Lubing Stabilizers: This reduces the rattling sounds that stock stabilizers produce. Alexotos and Taeha Types have videos tutorial available.
Lubing Switches: This dampens the sound of your switches and increases their smoothness. Lubing switches is a time-consuming process, but the results are noticeable. Alexotos and Taeha Types have videos tutorial available.
Mounting Styles
The Loop has a newly designed internal mounting system to fine-tune your typing experience. The lattice block mount uses a lattice structure to create a dreamy, flexible typing experience. The Mode Loop offers three variations of the lattice block mount ranging from full-lattice green (most flex), full-lattice black (mid flex), and half-lattice green (low flex). The solid block mount produces a firmer, more responsive, yet still comfortable typing experience.
Fasteners

There are up to 6 types of fasteners used during this build. This diagram can be referenced to confirm that you are using the correct ones.
- H1.3 hex bit for M2x4 and M2x10 hotswap standoffs, accent, and ring fasteners
- H1.5 bit for M2x3 daughterboard fasteners
- H2 bit for M2.5x5 and M2.5x12 weight and shorter case fasteners
- H2.5 bit for M3x16 longer case fasteners.
Step 1 - Test PCB




- Do not skip this step; we cannot guarantee a replacement PCB that was not tested prior to assembly.
- Place the PCB facedown, connect the daughterboard to the PCB, and plug it in. Be careful not to bend the connector pins.
- Open VIA, on the Configure tab click 'Authorize Device' and select the PCB. Navigate to the Key Tester Tab, and enable Test Matrix Mode.
- Touch the ends of your tweezers to the metal contacts under each switch position, lighting up each key in VIA. Note that the function key will not light up.
- In the rare event that keys do not light up, pause your build here and contact support@modedesigns.com.
Step 2 - Disassembly





- Loop TKL ships with the top case, bottom case, and ring pre-assembled.
- If you ordered a first edition Loop TKL, it ships with the top case, bottom case, ring, accent, and weight pre-assembled. You do not need to disassemble the accent or weight.
- From the back of the board, use the M2.5 bit to remove the 2 upper case fasteners and the M2 bit to remove the 2 lower case fasteners (four total).
- Set aside the top case and bottom case (with the ring attached).
Step 3 - Install Daughterboard




- Connect the daughterboard cable to the daughterboard, fasten it into the weight using the M2x3 fasteners (four total) with the USB-C port facing upwards.
- If you ordered a first edition Loop TKL, you can install the daughterboard directly onto the weight without removing it from the bottom case.
- Take care not to overtighten the fasteners, or you may damage the daughterboard and/or case.
Step 4 - Install Weight




- With the daughterboard facing down, align the left edge of the weight with the recess of the bottom case.
- Gently lower the right edge of the weight into the recess and screw in the weight with the M2.5x5 fasteners (two total).
Step 5 - Insert PE foam sheet (optional)


- If you plan to use the optional PE foam, lay it on top of the PCB now (foam kit sold separately).
Step 6 - Install Stabilizers





- Stabilizers ensure that long keys actuate properly, no matter where you press. The stabilizer wire you need for the spacebar will depend on your choice of layout.
- Insert the non-threaded end of the stabilizer into the larger cutout on the PCB, then pivot the threaded ends into place.
- Ensure that your stabilizers are completely flat on the PCB before screwing them in.
- While bracing the front of each stabilizer, screw it into place from the underside of the PCB. Repeat for the remaining stabilizers.
Step 7 - Standoff covers, Plate Foam, Plate




- Remove the plastic orange circle on top of the standoffs
- If you plan to use the optional plate foam for a more dampened sound, lay it on top of the PCB now.
- Align the plate with the front of the PCB, and fasten it into place with the M2x3 flat head fasteners (eight total).
Step 8 - Notice for Soft Plates



- If you are using a softer plate material such as POM or PC, ensure switches are fully seated. We recommend using the screwdriver to carefully lift the plate while pressing down on the switch to ensure the switch is seated flat on the plate.
- Install your first few switches around the plate as shown, this will help ensure the plate stays aligned during the installation process.
- Install remaining switches, working your way in from the corner switches.
Step 9 - Install Switches




- Before installing your switches, inspect them to ensure the two metal pins on the underside of each switch are straight. Straighten all pins with tweezers if any are bent.
- Insert switches into the plate/PCB. Take care to brace the back of the hotswap socket with a finger while pushing the switches into place with your thumb. Do not apply downward pressure to the surface of the plate itself.
- If you have a solder PCB, solder your switches now.
Step 10 - Install Mounting Blocks




- Slide your preferred mounting block onto the plate tabs (seven total), ensuring that the thinner half of the block is facing upwards.
- You can easily mix and match or swap these blocks to fine tune your typing experience.
Step 11 - Attach Plate/PCB to Chassis






- If you plan to use the optional case foam for a more dampened sound, lay it inside your bottom case now.
- While holding your plate/PCB assembly, use your other hand to attach the daughterboard cable to the PCB
- Check the orientation of the daughterboard cable and ensure that it is fully plugged in. It should not come loose if inserted properly.
- Gently lower the plate/PCB assembly into the chassis starting with the bottom edge of the plate/PCB.
Step 12 - Install Accent





- Install the accent piece with the flat side facing upwards (this piece only goes in one way) using the M2x4 fasteners (two total).
Step 13 - Align Top Case to Bottom Case





- Gently lower the top case over the bottom case and ring assembly (there should be no movement if aligned properly).
Step 14 - Install Top Case to Bottom Case





- Carefully hold together the board and flip it so the bottom is facing up.
- While holding the left side of the assembly together, screw in the M3x16 case fastener. Do the same on the right side (two total).
- Screw in the remaining M2.5x12 fasteners (two total).
Step 15 - Install Feet






- Install the rear feet by aligning it with the recess and pushing it in. Both of these silicone feet are exactly the same.
- Install the bar feet by aligning it with the recess and pushing it in(i). Start with the leftmost edge for the left foot and the rightmost edge on the right foot, working your way inwards.
- The left and right bar feet are keyed to the left and right side of the case.
Step 16 - Install Keycaps


- Install your MX-compatible keycaps
Step 17 - Tune Stabilizers


- Test the stabilized keys for any undesired rattling noises.
- If rattle is detected, lift the corresponding stem up and inject lube into the slider around the ends of the stabilizer wires.
Step 18 - Set macOS layout



- If you are using your Loop with a Mac, switch the Command and Option key positions in System Preferences. You will only need to do this one time, and the positions will be correct for both Mac and PC usage.
Step 19 - Program Keymap in VIA/QMK


- The Loop is fully compatible with VIA and QMK. You can use the graphical interface of VIA to program any of the keys or layers on the Loop.
- If using QMK, you may enter bootloader mode by pressing the physical reset button on the board or pressing Fn + Esc.
- If any of the keys do not actuate properly, it may be due to a bent switch pin during installation. Remove that keycap and switch using a keycap/switch puller. If any metal pins are bent, straighten them with a pair of tweezers.
Happy Typing
We hope you had a smooth build experience and would love to see the end result! Post your build in our photos channels on Discord or tag us on Instagram @modekeyboards. If you have any feedback you’d like to share with us, you can reach out to hi@modedesigns.com.